There are stories that are born of the meetings between ancient civilizations and young countries; of traditions steeped in time and young feet stepping in time. This is one of those.... It is a story of that which was born long ago in many different lands being experienced and expressed today. A blending of cultures from 17 countries from around the world all meeting to share, experience and celebrate their origins, their differences and their similarities.

This is the story of the MacCulloch dancers of Glengarry representing Canada on tour in the people's republic of China. It is a story that was lived by these young dancers in late August of 1994 but destined to be remembered forever by all who have made this journey to a land far away.

The story began when representatives of the China Federation of Literary and Arts Circles saw the MacCulloch Dancers perform at Cornwall's World-fest/Festimonde in July 1993. An official invitation was received from Mr. Shang Zhao, Deputy Director, External Liaison Department for the MacCulloch Dancers to represent Canada and join 15 other countries on tour in the China International Folk Art Festival and the Haicheng Festival this summer in China.

Under the direction of Rae MacCulloch and her daughters, Heather Forbes and Deborah Wheeler, the group began the year-long preparations and funding efforts required for such and exciting tour.

Now, one year later, at 6:00am on Friday August 12th, 1994, we are gathered at the Ottawa's MacDonald-Cartier International Airport where farewells are being said between those who will be left behind and those who won't. There are tears in the eyes of some parents, hastily brushed away, as they send their children off on an unknown adventure. There are expressions of excitement and fearlessness in the eyes of their children, mixed with momentary doubt and the sense of missing, already, the familiarity of parents, home, security and a tomorrow similar to today. It flickers briefly but then the sense of adventure rises and prevails.

With one last look and wave, the group departs and one's heart goes out to the parents who must leave the airport with a mixture of pride and worry for their daughters.

There are 20 dancers and one piper between the ages of 15 and 19 who come from Glengarry County, Navan, Orleans, Martintown, Alexandria, Vankleek Hill, Avonmore, Maxville, Harrington Quebec and Ottawa. The group is rounded out to 30 with the addition of a doctor, nurse, writer and three chaperones.

These girls are already seasoned performers and each have been members of the MacCulloch Dancers for the past 12 to 14 years. Nor is this their first international trip. They have represented Canada across our country, the United States, Scotland and Puerto Rico - delighting audiences everywhere they go with their exuberant performances of the traditional dances of the early Canadian settlers of Scottish, French and Irish backgrounds.

The group was first established nearly 40 years ago in 1955 be Rae MacCulloch shortly after her arrival in Glengarry County with her husband, Alex, and her two small children.

Sitting in church one Sunday, Rae noticed a little girl with ringlets and thought what fun it would be to teach her how to dance. She missed the dance that she had learned and performed in Montreal before her marriage and wanted to pass on to others what she had enjoyed and experienced herself. Rae was first introduced to dance as a student of Carrie Biggers from Scotland. She performed highland and tap and later developed her own style of step-dancing - among the very best this writer has ever seen.

Her first students numbered seven, including the little girl with the ringlets, and were taught in her sisters summer kitchen. Word soon spread and she was asked to teach in the next village and then another. Rae laughs "I was like a country doctor, making house calls and teaching in their summer kitchens."

Rae MacCulloch still knows where each of those original seven children are today and all the thousands she has since taught. She took her own two children, Heather and Greg, with her when she taught as well as three more children who were born later. They were all on stage by the time they were only two or three years old.

Rae continues to teach 4 nights a week and the MacCulloch Dancers continue to be a family affair. Daughters, Heather Forbes and Deborah Wheeler and Rae’s sister, Sybil Cameron, all teach with her. Heather’s husband, Jim Forbes, plays the bagpipes and a large role and strong presence in the Group’s dynamics as well. His calm, sure style is a mainstay in the planning and execution of the logistics of this trip.

Until his death late last year, Rae’s husband, Alex, handled all the paperwork and registrations. “He never missed a class or a trip since he retired," said Rae softly. "He was as proud of the dancers as their own parents and was always there to encourage them. He was my strength," she says sadly, missing him. But, somehow, you feel his presence on this plane and know he is still very much a part of this strong and loving family.

Rae MacCulloch looks around the semi-sleeping forms of the people around her and her look is fond as it rests upon her family and dancers. One can’t help but notice that the entire group is part of this loving, supportive family. No wonder the parents of these girls are able to let them go so far away without worry - they are going with their second family !

Rae’s love of Glengarry county is obvious when she speaks of the rich traditions and the people who live there. "It’s a community that appreciates what you do," she says with a smile. "They stop me on the street and when I’m shopping just to tell me how proud they are of our dancers. It’s marvelous to live in a community that shares their warmth and support so readily."

Rae MacCulloch loves Glengarry County and Glengarry loves her right back! And deservedly so, for this magnificent woman shares her talent, warmth and gracious charm with all she meets.

Every time and everywhere the dancers perform, Rae feels she is bringing a little bit of the Glengarry she so loves to the stages of the world. And now she is bringing that touch of Glengarry Country and surrounding areas all the way to China! "It’s like sharing Glengarry and performing for Glengarry - even in China," she says with her twinkling eyes and gentle smile.

The wheeze of the bagpipes break the silence aboard Canadian Airlines flight 951 as Piper, Maggie Bush, shares a little of the MacCulloch spirit with passengers and crew.

Twenty-six hours after departure and over 12,000 miles across Canada, the Pacific Ocean and Japan - the DC 10 lands in the Capital City of Beijing in the People’s Republic of China.

We are deposited in a city teeming with 12 million souls - half the entire population of Canada in one city! Over 95% are Han descent and all are cycling, sidestepping, swimming around each other in a teeming mass of humanity. This is Beijing. We join the swim.

The hot, heavy air of Beijing envelopes us and we are aware of a strong and unfamiliar smell. It is 12 hours later in Beijing than in Ottawa and dusk has begun to settle.

The first person we meet is Mrs. Zhang Jiamei, representative of the China Foundation of Literary and Arts Circles and our guide for the three-week duration of this Tour. She introduces herself, explaining that Zhang is her surname and her first name is last, while shepherding us and our luggage into a waiting bus and van. There are lots of helpers loading us in and the speed of the transaction is impressive.

Our driver, Sam, takes off and seems to take a mischievous delight in almost killing man and beast in our race to the hotel amidst shrieks from the dancers.

We learn that the city limits of Beijing municipality extend some 80 km including the urban, suburban and 9 counties under its administration with a total area of 16,800 square km - roughly the size of Belgium. We pass bicycles of every shape and description carrying a multitude of objects from entire families to live poultry; from a pyramid of television sets to live eels. We see one man attempting to strap a refrigerator to his bike.

Cyclists jostle for space among buses and taxis and the fact that there are so many accidents is not surprising. They take their lives in their hands every time they enter an intersection. There are an estimated three million plus bicycles in Beijing and many serve the purpose of family vehicle and worker’s truck. Apart from crowded buses, these are the only means of transportation for most Beijingers and are used though winter’s ice and the winds and yellow dust of the Gobi Desert in Springtime.

There is construction everywhere but we see little or no equipment or machines - just manpower, wheelbarrows and hand tools. We see no safety boots, hard hats or safety goggles and the work appears to go on for all hours until yet another high-rise, which is constructed with a bamboo framework, is complete. There are many workers but we never noticed anyone who appears to be in a supervisory position.

We arrive at Huang Yuan Hotel where, over the entrance, a large red banner reads "Warmly welcome folk art troupes of various countries."

Even within this hotel, construction goes on at all hours as the lobby and a number of floors are revamped, A beautifully carved wooden scroll depicting the life and history of China encircles the Lobby from overhead. It will all be quite lovely when complete but right now it is very loud and we trip over the uneven flooring.

Rooms are quickly assigned on the 8th floor and luggage delivered. We traipse back through the lobby to the main dining room that has been reserved for the delegations of our 16 countries. The odor of sesame oil greets our nostrils as we survey long tables of delicacies. It is all quite different from the Chinese food found in Canada. Having eaten our way across Canada and the Pacific Ocean, none of us have much appetite. Already the challenges of China are presented though the hotel rooms, the constant noise, trying to place overseas calls and the adjustment to food and water. There are many questions in those first hours of arrival but everything is taken in stride.

We use our bottled water for brushing teeth and drinking. Souvenir stands are set up in the lobby and we discover we can buy bottled water and canned coke and sprite there as well. The person who takes our money uses the traditional abacus which we will see in use throughout our travels. We stand in line to change our Canadian dollars into Chinese Yuan and try to understand the exchange rates we are charged.

Amidst the bustle and constant banging and clanking of the Hotel, a vivacious gentleman sporting a full mustache lovingly curled up at each long end and wearing a red RCMP T-shirt fairly dances across the lobby to meet this Canadian. He is from the Russian delegation and has seen the MacCulloch Dancers perform at World-fest in Cornwall last year. We introduce other members of our groups beneath the Beijing sky and he tells us that they have traveled five days across Russia and China by train to get here. He attaches a Russian pin to my shirt and says with enthusiasm and delight, "I love Canada!" Then, as though to prove it, he displays his remembrance of the MacCulloch Dancers by demonstrating his version of Canadian step-dancing blended in with a few Russian spins for good measure. One can’t help but smile and applaud such exuberance. We are joined by the young and very sparking members of the Indian troupe and everyone decides there should be a party this very evening.

This sets the tone for the interaction among the countries and the warm and enthusiastic welcome accorded Canada by everyone.

One evening, shortly after our arrival, the Germans discover it is dancer, Cindy Gillette’s 18th birthday. Counting down the moments until midnight, all the countries join in to sing her Happy Birthday in their own language. Later in the tour, Kim McKay also celebrates her birthday. She is ushered in to a pyramid of champagne glasses and that most universal of all song - Happy Birthday - is once again sung in all languages including Chinese. Kim is treated to a dizzying array of bumps and dances and the French live up to their reputation by forming unending lines of kisses.

One of the most memorable experiences occurs following a performance when the Korean drummers match rhythms with the Canadian Step-dancers in an impromptu tattoo.

Communication is no problem and music proves to be the universal language - able to go where politics fear to tread.

During the scheduled rehearsal for the Opening Ceremonies in Beijing, some of the countries incorrectly assume the rehearsal to be for their benefit and take longer than the Chinese organizers had in mind.

"Very quickly, very quickly! Off the stage!", they demanded for the rehearsal was for their benefit to check timing, sound volumes and lighting for television cameras.

The Canadians take the stage with full professional elan, run through their numbers with exuberance and perfection and exit promptly.

"Good Canada! Good Canada!", beams the Chinese official. The Canadian flag crackled proudly that night. Once again, Canada measures up to China’s expectations.

An impromptu link in the relations between China and Canada was forged in the person of Dr. Norman Bethune who provided medical services to the Chinese Army during their war with Japan until his death in 1939. Mao Zedong wrote "In Memory of Norman Bethune" and this tribute became one of the three most commonly read articles in China during the Cultural Revolution of the late 60’s. Consequently, Bethune has become one of the best known non-Chinese historical figures in China today and Canada is widely known there as the birthplace of Dr. Bethune.

The Communists, under the leadership of Mao Zedong, achieved victory over the Kuomintang government in January 1949. The Kuomintang Party Leaders fled to Taiwan which they control to this day. The People’s Liberation Army entered Beijing and on October 1st 1949, Mao proclaimed the People’s Republic of China to an audience of some 500,000 in Tiananmen Square.

Canada was one of the first countries to recognize the People’s Republic of China under Pierre Trudeau in 1970 in an initiative undertaken by Canada to establish diplomatic relations with China and to strengthen relations with the countries of Asia. The formula created by Canada has been adopted since 1970 by many of the countries which followed Canada’s lead in establishing relations with Beijing.

Thus China views Canada with great warmth and friendship and our welcome in China was indicative of that high regard.

It wasn’t until 1979 that Chain 'opened up' and Westerners were able to enter. Beijing saw many changes during the 80’s. Private business, once banned by the Communists, was now permitted and repair work began on the temples, monuments and buildings that had been wrecked during the Cultural Revolution. But the changes came more quickly than some Chinese could adapt to and too slow for others. In June 1989, PLA troops brutally suppressed a student-led pro-democracy protest as the world watched the proceedings from Tiananmen Square. As a result, China found itself shunned by most of the countries of the world and it is only in the past couple of years that Beijing and China have again become a destination for travel and investment. One Chinese Government official with whom I spoke, referred to those events as "the unfortunate incident of 1989".

Perhaps this International Folk Art Festival is one way Beijing has of bringing the world back to China. Many initiatives are being developed and multi-national companies have entered China in droves. "All of Asia is under construction," one well-placed official told me. "Cities and zones are building up overnight."

There is a tremendous sense that China is in the midst of great change; a giant machine that is just warming up and that, soon, the rest of the world will notice the power and volume of that machine.

The Canadians visit Tiananmen Square where they are photographed before the Gate of Heavenly Peace where only the Emperor could use the central door and bridge and which today is still dominated by a gigantic portrait of Mao. We see the Monument to the People’s Heroes and the huge S-shaped line-ups of Chinese waiting to enter the Mao Mausoleum which houses Mao’s body.

This is the heart of Beijing and Beijing is the heart and pulse of all China. Tiananmen Square is the gathering place, the location of government in Imperial Days, the home of emperors, the site of major rallies during the Cultural Revolution and the seat of today’s National People’s Congress. It is where a million people jammed the square to pay their last respects to Mao in 1976. And, in 1989, it is here that army tanks and soldiers cut-down the pre-democracy student demonstrators.

We enter the Forbidden city and feel the power and almost 600year old history of our surroundings. It is so named because, until 1949, entry was forbidden to all but the inner circle.

That evening is the Opening Ceremonies of the International Festival. Amid the thunder of disciplined Chinese drummers, a flag bearer and 6 representatives from each country run onto the stage in a flurry and swirl of brightly flying colors.

A circle of flags and national costumes unfurl to the persistent drum-beat until all performers are arrayed across the stage beneath the stylized symbol of the Festival hanging from high in the rafters of Ditan Gymnasium and surrounded by flags of each participating country.

While the speeches are being said, my eyes, like everyone else’s go the stage. There in the front row, right beside China, is Canada. Is it my imagination or are their faces glowing and shining and smiling more than the rest? No, it is not imagination. Their professionalism is outshone only by their smiles this night and none shine brighter than they.

Each country provides a 5-minute program and it is a delight to see the caliber and variety presented by each. Along with Canada are performance by Romania, Japan, New Zealand (a favorite of all with their Maori beat and wind song melodies), USA, Mexico, Latvia, Israel, Austria, Argentina, India, Korea, France, Germany, Russia and the acrobatic genius of China themselves...a total of 16 countries from 4 continents in this major event in the cultural life of the Chinese people.

The smiles and applause for Canada from the Chinese guest and other countries is warm and enthusiastic. The evening comes to an end and, in what appears to be typically Chinese fashion following a banquet or event, everyone leaves...quickly, quickly. We notice that everything is always done quickly, efficiently and in regimented and disciplined fashion. We are expected to follow and obey just as quickly whether during a rehearsal, performance or while visiting various sites. There is no leisurely "hanging out" or time given to take but a quick glance as we rush past, through and beyond to the next.

Over the next several days, are memorable performances in the Worker’s Cultural Palace in the Forbidden City as well as visits to the Pandas and Peking Zoo, Beijing Art Galleries to view the most wonderful paintings, brush paintings, sculpture and artifacts, Museums, the Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and to the Great Wall of China which curls and twists 2,000 miles across China like a giant stone serpent. Legends and history abound and we Canadians are spellbound in the midst of the ancient past and the bustling present which are both entwined into this one moment in time - like being caught in a time warp.

We tasted noodles and rice, bean curd and jiaozi (dumplings), snake and little birds, sea cucumbers and fungi but the dancers favorite stops were at MacDonalds and Hard Rock Cafe.

Jim provided our wake up calls by playing the bagpipes in the hotel hallway each morning (unless he had been up too late the night before).

We took photos of China and China took photos of us. It was interesting to be standing apart and find yourself in a cluster of Chinese with one of their number taking a photo of their family with the oddity that was you.

We saw a bus breakdown on a thoroughfare and all the men inside get out to push. Late one night, we saw three men ride their bikes to a construction site where they sat on a pile of dirt reading their books - for the construction site was well lit and their homes were not. Another night, we saw a group of men sitting on a sidewalk peering through an open doorway watching the television within.

We left Beijing with a great deal of respect for its hard working people and we discovered how fortunate we are to be Canadian and live in a democracy.

The group then traveled on to Dalian in North Eastern China and a reasonably new Economic Development Zone. Dalian sits on a peninsula across from North Korean and is reported to be the "cleanest city in China".

The festival in Dalian combined the International Folk Art Festival with the International Fashion Festival with designers and models coming from around the world.

The Dalian Festival was a most professional and spectacular extravaganza, on a par with the Los Angeles Olympic Games. It was attended by 40,000 at the dress rehearsal and another 40,000 to the main event which was held in a large stadium. No expense was spared to stage this elaborate and impressive production ablaze with brilliant costumes, laser light show, fireworks, colorful dragon floats, national artists and 1,000 Chinese dancers filling a field surrounding a large central stage where the main acts appeared.

With flags flying and lights flashing everywhere throughout the stadium, the Canadian step-dancers provided a rhythm with their feet that was followed by the Highland dancers, while the 1,000 Chinese performers in brilliant costumes followed the Chinese background music with their own choreography. It was a unique adaptation by the Canadians and skillfully handled. They danced in perfect unison and with tremendous energy and the crowds loved them!

No words can adequately describe the scope of this projection which was broadcast to a television audience of 800 million across China! Rae MacCulloch had the opportunity, not once but twice, to address the people of China on national television bringing greetings from our government and the people of Canada.

There were a total of 19 performances by the MacCulloch Dancers while in China with a combined viewing audience of over 360,000 at the live performances in addition to the television audience of 800 million. But the highlight for each of the Canadians was yet to come and occurred in the final days during the Haicheng Festival in a parade with colorful dragons, floats, musicians and dancers from around the globe. Another 250,000 Chinese viewed the parade that gave the Canadians the wonderful opportunity to interact directly with the people.

Shaking hands and pinning Canadian flags to their shirts; drawing the children forward to dance in the streets - the Canadians reached out with joy and friendship and the response from the Chinese was overwhelming. None who saw those faces will ever forget the experience.

Said Rae MacCulloch, "The mothers gave me their babies to hold. there was such love on the parents faces as you took their children to hold or join in the dance that it would melt your heart. The performances throughout China were outstanding but the communication and warmth shared with the Chinese people was the most rewarding and uplifting of all. Holding their babies and looking into their smiling faces, I knew this is why we had come."

There were constant and large crowds around the Canadians and every minute of every hour, they were surrounded by photographers and television cameras everywhere they went. Police escorts and security guards were provided to help navigate through the large crowds that seemed to gather wherever they were - even shopping. But the crowds were not abusive nor intrusive - just large. "In fact," said Rae, "they are such a gentle people, always so polite and gracious. They asked for so little - only a smile and a handshake."

There was always a crowd outside the hotel waiting for the Canadians. One free evening, Jim Forbes played the bagpipes and a ceilidh was performed for and with the crowds. This provided another sensational memory for the Canadians who displayed what I can only call the MacCulloch spirit. It is high energy and professionalism combined with great warmth, respect and kindness. Their faces and expressions say it all as they reach out to the people of China and are touched in return.

"It was so rewarding," said Rae. "The response of the Chinese people showed that they feel Canada to be a great country and our young people were marvelous. I’ve always had great love for them but, in this trip, I’ve admired them so much. They had to rise above a number of hardships and cultural differences but they never let it show. They were always so professional and so friendly and I was filled with pride as I watched them rise to every occasion. The adults who accompanied us were wonderful and supportive and a joy to have with us as well."

What Rae MacCulloch may not be aware of is the fact that everyone there was very proud of her too! If the people to China treated the Canadians like royalty, which they did, then Rae was the Queen.

Noble Villeneuve, member of Parliament for Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry, knew the MacCulloch Dancers would make wonderful ambassadors who would foster communication and friendship between Canada and China.

He was right, for each member of the group showed strength and spirit on their adventure to China and were a credit to all of Canada.

The group has been invited to represent Canada in Colorado and the Czech Republic in 1995 and in Germany in 1996. "The gates to the world are open to us and there is hardly a place we can’t go," said Rae while holding a letter of congratulations from Prime Minister Chrétien.